F.A.Q.

Everyone is calling for aluminum now, but why is that? Well, there is the generall believe in aluminum to be the better, stronger material. To a certain degree it is – atleast slightly - but aluminum has one big restriction: its manufacturing process CNC machines are a beautiful thing, but they are limited to what is possible and what the can reach. Also they are really expensive. That’s also why there are only a bunch of real CNC body shells out there (Retro Arms for example). The modern and highend 3D printing process though are mostly laser based. They don’t carve material out of an existing piece, they actually create hardened material from powder. That way we can really create what we want and our products are meant to be printed from the first step on and evolved around that general conccept. Thats why a product like CORE is actually really strong, it uses the possibilities of the material and production process. It is not limited to existing structures besides regulator, engines or HopUps and that what gives us the freedom to create something awesome and new. There are no restrictions and we made it to fit proper forces that occur while playing our favorite game.

The parts are white on the inside and dyed in the specific color you order them. The dye won’t rub off, atleast even after two years of playing the same parts I didn’t manage to do so.

All parts are printed from Nylon PA12 on high end industrial SLS or MJF printers based in EU. Different parts are printed in different facilities for optimized quality.

You get a whole build kit. To finish it you will need: • Polarstar F2 / Jack with Macro Line (F2 recommended!) • FCU (Polarstar or Gorilla) • Small LiPo Battery (Turnigy 2s 300mAh recommended) • V2 Rotary HopUp (ProWin or Retro Arms recommended) • HopUp Rubber • Inner Barrel length between 120 and 150mm (130-140mm rcommended! Thread ends at 135mm in the most forward position) • RMR sight (if you want to use one) • Tracer (Acetech Brighter C recommended, but any Tracer with -14mm thread is going to work)

You get a whole build kit. To finish it you will need: • Polarstar F2 / Jack with Macro Line (F2 recommended!) • FCU (Polarstar or Gorilla) • Small LiPo Battery (Turnigy 2s 300mAh recommended) • V2 Rotary HopUp (ProWin or Retro Arms recommended) • HopUp Rubber • Inner Barrel length between 210 and 300mm • RMR sight (if you want to use one) • Tracer (Acetech Brighter C recommended, but any Tracer with -14mm thread is going to work)

You get a whole build kit. To finish it you will need: • Polarstar F2 / Jack / Wolverine including Solenoid Cables • Wolverine Storm Regulator • FCU (Polarstar or Gorilla) • Small LiPo Battery (Turnigy 2s 300mAh recommended) • V2 Rotary HopUp (Maxx, Prowin, Retro Arms recommended) • HopUp Rubber • Inner Barrel length between 140-160mm recommended • RMR sight (if you want to use one) • Tracer (Acetech Brighter C recommended, but any Tracer with -14mm thread is going to work)

We might open this possibility at some point. However for now this is not possible due to existing work load.